New Hampshire urban village design

When you walk down any street in the Netherlands you never feel claustrophobic, yet the Netherlands is the most densely populated country in the western world—not including micro-states. Zoom in even more, Amsterdam is one of the most prominent cities in Europe, yet the urban experience when you walk around doesn’t feel anymore overwhelming than that of Portsmouth, NH. The streets are lined with narrow brick four-story buildings with cheese shops at ground level and apartments above. You can’t say the same thing about other cities: London, Paris, Los Angeles, and especially not New York.

Conversely, another datapoint I will preface this article with is that the State of New Jersey—by far the most densely populated American state—is only slightly less densely populated than the Netherlands. Yet when you drive around the average town in New Jersey, you are overwhelmed with traffic, rude drivers, strip malls, jug handles, Jersey barriers (they are called walls in NJ), and parking lots as far as the eye can see. What went wrong?

The answer is bad design and the abandonment of traditional development principles all reinforced by ridiculous land-use codes. The turning point in the United States was when Euclidian zoning (i.e.: separated residential, commercial, and industrial zones) was ruled constitutional in 1926 by the Supreme Court case Village of Euclid v. Ambler Realty Co. The situation was exacerbated after WWII with massive population growth and massive socialized highway projects.

As an aside, ironically, the namesake of Euclidian zoning is not Euclidian geometry, but rather a village in Ohio. Euclidian geometry is the study of flat surfaces, lines, and angles.

The US and Canada have been stuck with Euclidian zoning for the past 100 years. Everywhere else in the world, zoning allows for some level of mixed-use development, but your mileage may vary.

Zoning is largely done at the national-level in many European countries. It’s very rigid, but it does allow for better mixed use and missing middle development than that of North America. Japan has a mix of national and local control for zoning and is by far the best zoning model in the civilized world in my opinion. Their system demonstrates how standardized zoning can actually increase freedom, affordability, and development options, rather than restrict them.

There are 12 different zone types in Japan and they are standard throughout the country. In New Hampshire, by comparison, each town decides their own respective Byzantine zone types and it’s a mess. Japan also has a great deal of local control in the sense that local authorities get to decide where to apply each of the 12 zone types. Where Japan gets even more compelling from a libertarian perspective is that, for the most part, each level higher in zone type allows for land use permitted in any of the previous zone categories.

For example, industrial zones have the highest zoning level and are the most permissive zones. Not only can you build a factory in an industrial zone, but you can also build mixed-use residential-businesses and detached single family homes. The lowest category of zoning is light residential. Interestingly even in that zone type, Japan allows home owners to designate up to 50 square meters (500 sqft) to operate as a commercial storefront. So even in the most restrictive neighborhoods, people can operate small boutique shops and small markets. Most towns in Japan designate most of their land as industrial zones to allow for free-form libertarian development.

When it comes time to build on land in Japan there isn’t a Byzantine permitting process, as long as the building conforms to the national standards and set-back formulas, you are good to go.

Another limitation in North American development is fire codes. In anything taller than 2 stories, most North American jurisdictions require two stairwells for egress. Seattle is one notable exception. Most European countries allow for up to 4 stories with just one stairwell. This has a cascading effect basically causing developers in North America to not build many multi-bedroom apartments in town centers. Most new high and medium density development in North America is limited to studio and 1-bedroom apartments. Allowing for 1 stairwell allows for ergonomic layouts that make better use of building corners. Most middle class families simply don’t have the option to live in town and city centers in North America largely in part because of the fire code effects and the zoning regulations previously mentioned.

All of what I’ve outlined is not to say that my goal is to force everyone into shoebox, Soviet-style apartments. It’s quite the contrary. The goal is to increase availability of all types of housing, while also preserving open space, so that those who appreciate living out in the middle of nowhere aren’t inundated by sprawl, and so they too have more options.

My thesis is that the masses don’t want to homestead out in the middle of nowhere, don’t want to live in cookie cutter suburbia, and they don’t want to live next to the inner city projects. Rather, the masses would prefer to live in traditional New England urban villages that are similar to that of contemporary Japan and the Netherlands. These villages offer a proven model that combines density with livability, showing how we can build communities that people actually want to live in rather than just places they can afford to live.

Total eclipse of the heart

Total Eclipse on Back Lake

Totality was an experience like none other.  At the beginning of the month, I rented a cabin with friends at Tall Timber Lodge in Pittsburg, NH, at the tippy top of the state, where New Hampshire, Quebec, and Maine all meet.  We spent the weekend driving around Northern NH and the Eastern Townships of Quebec (Estrie), which I will describe more after I talk about the eclipse.

In the late morning of the eclipse, people began assembling outside by Back Lake, the small lake next to Tall Timber.  The property faces the lake to the South, so we had an excellent front row seat to the eclipse.  Multiple amateur astronomers had telescopes with solar filters set up.  The head of the NH Astronomical Society was also there and was happily talking away about eclipses.

At around 14:30, the partial eclipse started, which was about an hour before totality.  We put our eclipse glasses on and began to see the sun get chomped away bit-by-bit by the moon.  We posed for some photos with the glasses, because of course if there wasn’t a picture, did it really happen?

About 30 min prior to totality, the light started to get noticeably flat, the air got cooler, and I put my jacket back on.  T-minus 20 minutes is when things started to get noticeably eerie.  The light got even flatter and even dimmer.  It was as if I was wearing yellow filtered glasses.  The shadows got very strange. A friend brought a cheese grater and you could even see crescent-shaped shadows from the holes of the grater rather than something more circular. Wild! The energy and build-up at this point was thru the roof. My heart was beating fast at this point.

Then it happened.  Within 20 seconds, the light switch was turned out, the sun disappeared behind the shadow of the moon, and the corona haze of the sun dazzled around the outline of the moon.  As an added treat, there was even a red speck visible with the naked eye, which I was later told was a solar flare. 

The shadow bands were arguably the wildest effect.  If you have a white sheet or a white background on the ground you can make out wild wavy rapidly moving shadows from the sun’s corona.  This is extremely difficult to capture with a camera. The added bonus was that we were standing directly next to frozen lake, so the entire lake started to shimmer with shadow bands.  Incredible! I’ll never forget it.

I won’t forget the drive too. It took 10 hours to drive about 160 miles, including a two hour stop. Oh well. The eclipse was still worth it.

Hefeweizen at Schilling Brewery

The weekend leading up to the eclipse on that Monday was a fun time too. We stopped at Schilling Brewery in Littleton, which is perched next to the Ammonoosuc River in downtown Littleton, which is getting nicer every year. The brewery proudly does not serve any IPAs, but rather an excellent selection of German and European style beers. Good smash burgers too. Poutine was also on the menu, which was foreshadowing our venture into Québec.

Littleton is still only two-thirds the way up NH, it was still another hour plus drive through Coös County to our destination. The road meanders next to the Connecticut River up to Colebrook and then abruptly ascends further into the wilderness next to a small mountain stream. For the next 15 miles: no cell phone reception, no houses, just trees and French Canadian radio stations.

After bushwhacking 15 miles, we arrived in the town center of Pittsburg. Don’t blink or else you’ll miss it, as I once heard someone joke. Pittsburg is an outpost town and the result of a survey dispute.  For many years, in the 1800s the town declared itself to be its own independent county, the Indian Stream Republic, before formally deciding to join New Hampshire.

Pittsburgh Center

Tall Timber Lodge is located on Back Lake, a couple miles outside the center of town. In season, which is Summer and Winter, they have a restaurant and cabins for rent. Early spring is their down season, so we were on our own for food. I’m told Tall Timber is a big destination for snowmobilers.

On Sunday, we drove across the border to Magog, Québec, which is a bit more cosmopolitan than the region on other side of the border. We loaded up on artisan cheese, espresso, and croissants. We also stopped at Bleu Lavande and Abbaye de Saint-Benoît-du-Lac, a beautiful modern cathedral nested above Lake Memphrémagog. The monks at the abby famously produce cheese and cider.

Abbaye de Saint-Benoît-du-Lac

For dinner, we ate at the micro-brasserie la Memphré in downtown Magog. The appetizers included bread and a warm compote of cheese and caramelized onions. Delicious. I rounded out the meal with a glass of wine and more bread and fondue made with cheese from the abby. Bread and cheese are my comfort foods.

Oh Magog

Afterwards, we made our way back into the woods of Pittsburg and prepared for the eclipse day ahead. Great weekend!

PorcFest XX in review

Franconia Notch timelapse

I zipped thru Franconia Notch last week descending into the Great North Woods. The weather, scenery, and culture largely change in New Hampshire as you pass thru the Notch. Some would say it’s like entering into Shangri-La. More accurately during the second-to-last week of June, it’s like entering Galt’s Gulch.

Last week marked my second PorcFest, so I was no longer a newbie to this festival. Many of the regulars assumed that I had been more times, which is probably a sign that I’m becoming a familiar face amongst the porcupines in New Hampshire.

For those who don’t know, PorcFest is the Porcupine Freedom Festival at Roger’s Campground in Lancaster, NH. It’s basically Burning Man for liberty-minded people in the White Mountains, or as I’ve also heard it described: “Woodstock for rational people”.

What I like the most about PorcFest is that everyone is pursuing their own ideal experience, which maximizes the amount of happy campers.

Last year, I felt more compelled to stick with the few people that I knew, but this year I felt like I could freewheel and choose more of my own adventure. I ended up meeting more people this way and I never felt alone. Of course I did merge back into my core friend group throughout the course of a day and often at the hub that I was camping at. The beauty of freedom and individuality becomes more apparent when its concentrated in a single village like PorcFest.

David Friedman (son of Milton Friedman)

Other than some of the events hosted at the hub that I camped at, which already received enough publicity in the media, some of my favorite events and speakers were: RFK Jr, David Friedman, Comedy night, Matt and Terry Kibbe’s talk on Georgian wine, and Ian Underwood’s lecture on the Croydon affair.

Radical Expression Dance Party

The festival is very freeform and decentralized, so there are many smaller events that are organized at individual “hubs”, which are campsites. This is the single best organizational feature of the festival. The second best feature is that all the events from all the hubs get put on a giant calendar so that you can prioritize your time.

The festival comes alive at night

All walks of life attend the festival from families to dead-heads and from gay men to evangelical Christians. Despite the stark differences, we overwhelmingly get along peacefully in the closest thing to Galt’s Gulch that has ever existed.

Looking south at the Mt Washington and Presidential Range

It almost brought tears to my eyes seeing the mountains tower above the valley in the distance. I can’t believe how lucky I am to have been born in such a scenic and free place. Roger’s Campground faces right at the north side of the Presidential Range, so you’re staring right at the most prominent peaks in the East. Even while taking an outdoor shower at the PorcShowers you could see amazing views of the mountains. I grew up in the very southern part of New Hampshire, so prior to PorcFest, I never had an excuse to spend significant time in the Great North Woods.

True freedom shouldn’t have to exist for only one week out of the year, but its miles further than what is being achieved (or really just failing) in other locales. Will I be back to PorcFest? That’s an unequivocal yes.

Switzerland or New Hampshire?

My first ski pass

I have early childhood memories, from around age 3, of riding up the J-bar with my father at Pats Peak in Henniker, NH. I really started learning to ski when I was 7 years old, when my parents put me in ski lessons at Mt Sunapee. In upper elementary school, the entire class would take ski lessons every Monday night under the lights at Pats Peak. In middle school, my family would take many ski vacations in Northern New England. In College, our ski club would go each weekend to a different mountain in Vermont and New York.

When I started working in New Jersey, I didn’t have good access to mountains. I would really only ski one or two times a season usually when I would visit family in New England. One time a co-worker took me to Blue Mountain in the Poconos in Pennsylvania. It wasn’t much bigger than the bunny hill at Pats Peak. The first time I ever skied out west was during an extended business trip to Colorado when I skied at Breckenridge. I was there for 2 months in the winter, so I skied nearly every weekend. A-basin was my favorite.

Winter of 21/22, I had just moved back to New England, so I skied a handful of times with friends and family. This most recent winter, I decided to finally break down and buy a ski pass. I chose an Epic Northeast Pass, which gave me access to about half of the ski areas in Northern New England. The other half are on the Ikon Pass, and a few stragglers on on the Indy Pass book.

I have to say it makes skiing much more pleasurable not feeling obligated to ski all day to get my money’s worth. I skied 16 days this season, which is a new personal record. Many of those days were just a few quick ski runs. I liked doing the ski pass enough to purchase a pass for next season. Maybe a trip out west is on the horizon for next season.

No scuba diving on my lawn! A hike at Andrew’s Point in Rockport, MA

Recently learned about this public hiking and shoreline access in Rockport, MA, from this Boston Globe article about the pending litigation between a landowner and the Town of Rockport. Basically one lady is trying to shutdown access to the Atlantic Way, a public hiking and swimming spot in front of her house that has been used by locals for hundreds of years.

The deeds to each of the houses in this neighborhood specify that there are public rights of way between each house and in front of each house on the rocks for public use. We can debate the merits of government conservation land, however as a staunch believer in private property rights, I dearly hope that one rich person isn’t able to steal public land from the town via the courts. This really should be a cut-and-dry case in favor of the town, but money can have its way of bribing the courts.

No scuba diving allowed on her lawn!

I’ve seen a lot of crazy signs, but “No scuba diving [on my lawn]” is a new low for NIMBYism. I’ll tread lightly, but I suspect there is something severely unwell with this lady on Andrew’s Point.

The Atlantic Way is a real local’s gem in Rockpoint and I recommend checking it out if you are ever near Cape Ann.

A year of blogging

Nantasket Beach, Hull, MA, drone shot
Drone shot of Nantasket Beach in Hull, MA, looking towards Boston in the distance

I bought the drewsview.xyz domain a year ago and the out reach of this page has exceeded my expectations. My Twitter page has grown at reasonable clip thanks in no small part to my #NHpolitics and liberty followers. My public Instagram and YouTube pages need more love, but they have generated positive impressions. I’d like to be more active on Odysee, which is a video site hosted on a blockchain, and is more impervious to censorship. I plan on flying high and keeping the adventure going into Summer 2022. I have some good trips in the works for June. Stay hungry.

The Mountain Division

North Conway Depot was designed by Bostonian Architect Nathaniel J Bradlee

The Maine Central Railroad’s Mountain Division thru Crawford Notch, New Hampshire, is the crown jewel of the historic mainline railroads in New England. The road snakes into the White Mountains to Crawfords Station, about 25 miles north from North Conway. An inactive right-of-way continues another 45 miles from Crawfords to St Johnsbury, VT.

Other than the grand scenery, the significance of this line was that it once served as the primary route for freight traveling from Maine to points west of Chicago via Canada. After the consolidation of the Boston & Maine and Maine Central railroads in the 1980s, the preferred route for freight was the St Lawrence and Atlantic Railroad via Gorham and Berlin, NH, which has more gentle grades.

Nowadays, the glory of the Mountain Division can still be experienced aboard the Conway Scenic Railroad‘s Mountaineer train, which my parents and I had the pleasure of doing the week before Thanksgiving this year, during my interim between jobs. This was the Conway Scenic Mountaineer’s final excursion of the 2021 season and the neat thing about the ride late in the year is the ability to see the snow-capped peaks without foliage blocking the views.

Drew’s reflection onboard Conway Scenic’s Mountaineer on the Maine Central’s Mountain Division in Crawford Notch, New Hampshire

Trip highlights

  • North Conway Depot – The mountain backdrop with Cathedral Ledge and the atypical architecture for New England make this a photo destination unto itself. This is was designed by Bostonian architect Nathaniel J Bradlee and is considered a unique blend of Victorian and Imperial Russian architecture. Bradlee was an accomplished architect and designed many of the brownstones in Boston’s South End.

  • Frankenstein Trestle – It’s a long curved trestle. A lot of bystanders take pictures of the traversing trains and I’ve spotted several great drone shots on Instagram of trains on this trestle. Honestly, it’s not the most scenic part of the ride, but it must have been quite the engineering feat when the railroad was built in the mid-1800s.

  • Mt Washington views from Crawford Notch – Nothing short of amazing. I’ve been on many trains thru the Swiss Alps and the views along here are in the same league.

  • Crawfords Station – Another fine example of Bradlee’s work, although slightly more standard Victorian. There are many excellent photos ops of the station with Crawford Notch in the background.

  • AMC Highlands Center – Probably Appalachian Mountain Club’s most modern lodging facility. It has a gift shop, restrooms, a cafe, and many scenic vistas. This is walking distance from Crawfords Station.

One of the big themes of the guided narration during the train ride was mortality. Both the aspect of inhabiting an avalanche-prone valley and operating a railroad in the wilderness a century ago were dangerous prospects. The conductor memorialized many lives lost trying to tame the savage elements of the White Mountains. Along the railroad itself, there were numerous accidents, including a particularly bad train boiler explosion. It’s no wonder that the American Indians demurred from inhabiting much of the rugged terrain and were also reluctant to ascend the high peaks.

Conway Scenic trains reversing direction at Crawfords Station

This was a long ride, sitting at about 5 hours round trip. It’s unfortunate that the tracks in the low country leading up to the notch aren’t in slightly better condition allowing for faster speeds, since the scenery is not quite as interesting as it is along the notch. However, the weather was as good as it possible could have been since Mt Washington’s summit is usually hidden in the clouds the vast majority of the year. Also fortunately, the seats are very comfortable and the large windows offer the audience world-class views. This was a wow.