Planes, trains, & automobiles: a student travels thru Europe

Originally published in the Concordiensis on 2014-11-06.

Drew in Mürren, Switzerland

I’m currently on a plane going from Basel, Switzerland, to London, England, for a layover back to France. Below me, the Rhine River winds by misty hillsides in this region where the German, Swiss and French borders meet. 

It’s the end of a long trip. Switzerland was the sixth European country I visited during my term abroad at the University of Rennes, France. 

My travels began on Monday, Sept. 1, in Sunapee, NH. I put on my turquoise golf shirt and made sure for the 10th time I had everything. My mother wasn’t going to let me leave the house without the proper provisions for the fierce winters in western France. 

From Boston-Logan Airport, my first stop was Reykjavik, Iceland. My friend Stefan and I met up in Reykjavik, because he flew in from JFK. 

Iceland has a plethora of geothermal energy (in fact, the country is completely powered by renewables) and much of the excess energy is used to heat swimming pools. In downtown Reykjavik, we visited a couple of outdoor pools, all of which stay open in the height of winter. We also saw the Blue Lagoon right before we hopped onto our plane to Paris. 

If I’ve gotten an education in anything during my term abroad, it’s been how to work public transportation. All major European airports have train stations, so from Charles de Gaulle Airport, we took the Regional Express Network, or RER, commuter rail into the heart of Paris. 

Stefan and I did touristy things around Paris, like going up the Eiffel Tower and walking the Champs Élysées. I had already been to Paris before, but some of the highlights from this trip were the Musée d’Orsay and the park next to the Palace of Versailles. 

From Paris, we planned to take a flight from Charles de Gaulle Airport to Rennes, the city where we would be studying.

After strolling around the Jardin du Luxembourg we took the RER train back to the airport. We arrived at Charles de Gaulle Terminal G about 45 minutes before our flight, which was a problem, because Air France check-in lines move like molasses. 

The attendants, for whatever reason, were making phone calls for each check-in. You would think they would have a more efficient system, but this is France, and, of course, Air France was on strike a week later, anyways. 

By the time we reached the head of the line, the attendant refused to check our bags, since it was 1 p.m. and our flight was scheduled to leave in a half hour. What a pain. 

With trains and flying out of the question, I was left with the American solution: rental car. It turns out that 21-year-olds can rent cars in France. 

As a disclaimer, I very much don’t recommend renting a car in Europe unless you are up for the challenge and can drive manual transmission. I had just turned 21 two weeks earlier, so I only had a temporary paper license and my expired license. After being declined by the Hertz affiliate, the Avis guy gave me the go-ahead. 

I’d bought a SIM card in Paris from Free Mobile, a really cheap cellphone company in France, but it provides data service nonetheless, so fortunately Google Maps was functional on my phone. 

Between Stefan, my luggage and myself, the little sub-compact Opel was packed to the roof. Somehow, I managed to drive three hours to Rennes with neither a real map nor a real driver’s license. 

As if getting to Rennes wasn’t enough of an adventure, for a month and a half leading up to my vacation, I had been traveling every weekend throughout Western Europe. 

One of the first weekends of the term, I visited my family friend Katrin in Munich, Germany, for Oktoberfest. I took the TGV, France’s high-speed train system, to Paris, and then changed onto a sleeper-overnight train direct to Munich. 

In any case, Munich is a spectacular city. After running with one of the brewery parades, Katrin gave us an extremely quick tour of downtown Munich. Then she said to me, “Now you’ve seen most of Munich, you should take my car and go see Salzburg, Austria.” 

I guess the drive to Rennes was foreshadowing my drive down the Autobahn. Katrin claimed that her Volkswagen Polo would only go 130 km/h (80 mph), which was probably her way of saying I shouldn’t drive too fast. On one of the straightaways without a speed limit, I did get the Polo to redline at 170 km/h (105 mph) — in the middle lane, mind you. Meanwhile, in the fast lane, Porsches and Lamborghinis were humming by at a much, much faster clip. 

The speed limit on the Autobahn is automated according to the weather and traffic, so as soon as the digital signs change to the no-speed-limit symbol, which looks like a white circle with a couple of white lines diagonally bisecting it, everyone steps on the gas. It’s as if the scenery around you abruptly speeds up, but the cars stay in the same place. I’ve never experienced anything like it. 

After Munich, we did several group excursions with the whole group. We’ve toured around Brittany, the region where Rennes is situated. In Normandy, we visited all of the famous World War II sites. 

Other side excursions I’ve done on my own include visiting the City of Nice, in the Côte d’Azur region, and the British Island of Jersey, right of the coast of France. I’ve been staying in youth hostels, which cost about $20 to $40 per night. 

In Europe, most students have a vacation mid-semester, around Halloween. My plan was to make good use of Ryanair. So with a one-day layover in London at both ends of my trip, I flew from Dinard (just north of Rennes) to Venice, Italy. Stefan, Ashley and I spent a few days marveling over the canals and the Italian architecture. 

From Venice, Stefan and I (Ashley went to Scotland and the Netherlands) took a train to Lucerne, Switzerland, which is a city surrounded by lakes and mountains. 

In Switzerland, Stefan and I bought a Swiss rail pass, valid for all trains, boats and public transport within the country. Even the tiniest villages in Switzerland are accessible by train. 

From Interlaken, we took the narrow-gauge Berner Oberland-Bahn train to the ski village of Grindelwald, at the foot of the Eiger, one of the most prominent mountains in Europe. We even took a train to the Jungfraujoch, the highest train station in Europe, which is right next to the Eiger. 

I’m in decent physical shape, but walking up stairs at 11,000 feet put me out of breath. The view at the top of the viewing platform was crystal clear. All of the snowcapped Alps towered above cow pastures and villages.

After Grindelwald, we spent a night in Geneva, and our Ryanair flight left from Basel. 

Knowing how to speak French has been helpful in France, but I’ve been speaking English everywhere else I’ve gone. 

It didn’t really hit home until my host mother, who can only speak French, asked me what language I was going to speak in Switzerland. “English,” I responded with a chuckle. 

And then there’s the money. Everything in Europe, save health care and education, is many times more expensive than in the U.S. On top of that, the sales taxes in several countries add up to 20 percent (Switzerland was only 5 percent). The taxes were especially shocking for me since we don’t have sales tax in New Hampshire. 

And the gas — yikes! Gas is about $10 a gallon. To fill up a quarter of a tank in Katrin’s tiny Volkswagen cost me around $45. 

I’ve already spent a couple thousand dollars, but considering how much I’ve done in two months, it’s been completely worth it. I may not have many more chances left in my lifetime to explore another continent extensively. 

The term abroad in Rennes has given me an extraordinary opportunity to see Europe. 

A week of sailing in the British Virgin Islands

Day 1: Arrival

Island time is no joke. Everything moves at a much s l o w e r pace in the Caribbean and the Virgin Islands are no exception. On vacation, this unhurried mindset can be a welcomed change from the rapid tempo of the Northeast. In January, I had the pleasure of sailing in the pristine blue waters of the British Virgin Islands with a group of friends on a 46-foot catamaran.

My eyes crept open in the Ted Williams tunnel on the 4am Uber ride to Logan Airport. The journey began with a short flight from Boston to JFK. That layover was quicker than a New York minute. Good thing I didn’t check a bag. A troupe of Moko Jumbies—Caribbean stilt dancers—flailing to loud music greeted us at the arrival gate at the St Thomas airport in the US Virgin Islands. What alternative universe had I drifted into?

I met some of the other members of my group at the airport and we found a Taxi van to take us to the ferry terminal for the Road Town Fast Ferry. Keep in mind that is very much a misnomer and that there is nothing fast about island time.

At ferry terminal, I began the mandatory $20 bag check. The gentleman handling the bags approached me and I tried to confirm that my bag was headed for Tortola (which is in the British Virgin Islands), to which I got the response, “No, man, BVI.” I said again, “Tortola?”. He said, “No, BVI”. I gave up when I noticed my friends’ bags were being thrown on the same pile.

The arrival in Road Town, Tortola, BVI, was equally a theater of organized chaos. We waited on the boat for nearly an hour, while the attendants unloaded the bags onto the dock. When we finally disembarked, we waited in the customs queue for at least 20 minutes. We had a brief struggle with the customs officer lady when we told her the marina name instead of the boat charter company we were using. The final queue was for the environmental tax, which you pay in cash to the last jackass by the exit door. (A similar fee is also assessed when leaving the BVIs, so bring plenty of cash). Fortunately they use US currency.

You may sense my frustration at this point. Truthfully, I’m trying to restrain myself as I type this from writing a scathing review of the organizational skills in the Caribbean because the rest of the trip I’m about to describe was quite lovely.

My friend, who would be our skipper for the week and who had arrived a day earlier, picked us up in a rental car. Interestingly, the cars in the Virgin Islands are nearly all standard American left-hand-drive vehicles, despite driving on the left side of the road. The road to Nanny Cay Marina hugged the mountainous coastline and within 15 island minutes we arrived at the boat. The vacation finally begun. I could breathe now.

Day 2: Indian Head & Norman Island

We set sail in the morning and the first stop was Indian Head, a large rock surround by a reef, where we went snorkeling for the first of many times. In the afternoon, we made our way to Norman Island, which had a grotto that we also snorkeled thru. There were countless varieties of fish—even an octopus—that we could see in the crystal clear Caribbean blue water.

Each large boat, including our own, had a small dingy attached to the back. Nearly all of the dingies were small inflatable zodiacs with a little outboard engine, which were useful for going ashore when the catamaran was anchored or moored offshore. And I strongly qualified that previous statement with “nearly” since some of the mega-yachts we encountered later in the trip had dingies that practically looked the length of our large catamaran.

When my friend first had me drive the dingy that day I asked how far I had to be away from people and boats before I could go fast, to which he replied, “There is no rule, just try not to run over the people snorkeling.” In New Hampshire, where I grew up, there is a strictly-enforced law that you must be 150 feet from any swimmer, boat, or shoreline before going faster than headway speed.

The other fact that caught my attention was the licensing. I asked my friend what kind of credentials he needed to charter and captain the catamaran, to which he said, “In the BVIs, all you need is your 10-digit license.” And I asked, “What’s that?”. He smirked, “Your credit card”. As long as you can reach the counter and hand the charter company a credit card, they’ll give you keys to large boat for the week. Unlike anywhere else in the US or Europe, no license or sailing résumé needed. This general sense of lawlessness in the Virigin Islands strongly appealed to my live-free-or-die ethos.

In the evening, we moored in the bay in the middle of Norman Island near a floating bar called Willy T’s. I gazed up at the stars from the opened hatch above my sleeping berth. I had an unperturbed planetarium right above my bed. One thing I quickly noticed is that, in the Caribbean, the bright side of the moon is on the bottom of the moon, rather than the side, forming more of a smily-face shape. Apparently this is an effect near the equator. The phase of the moon is always the same no matter where on Earth you are, but the angle of the bright part changes based on latitude.

Day 3: Cooper Island and Virgin Gorda

Around lunchtime, we made a brief stopover at Cooper Island, which was a sleepy castaway island resort, with a couple outdoor bars surrounded by palm trees and white sand.

By early evening we docked the boat at a marina in Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda. We all took turns using the larger showers onshore in the marina. We learned quickly to take advantage of the amenities at the marinas, since the showers and bathrooms on the boat were quite tight even tho our boat had four showers and four bathrooms for twelve people.

We ate dinner at Little Dix Resort, which had beautifully manicured gardens and pools perched on the side of a steep mountain overlooking the clear blue ocean water. The food was quite good, but the scenery was even better.

We came back to the marina after dark only to realize that we had been locked out of the boat. The door had jammed when we locked it before dinner. Two hours later, some Germans staying on the boat next us helped us break into one of the cabin windows to finally unlock the door. Phew! Everyone was worried that we’d be sleeping outside that night.

Day 4: The Baths and Bitter End Yacht Club

The Baths are a series rock formations on the southern neck of Virgin Gorda. There is a loop that takes visitors thru a series of sandy and narrow grottos finally ending at a beautiful sandy beach surrounded by more rock formations. Only mistake we made was going the wrong way around the loop. We were going against traffic and the oncoming flow of Disney cruise tourists was relentless.

We sailed past the home of Richard Branson, the creator of Virgin Records, on Mosquito Island on the way to The Bitter End Yacht Club, which was our mooring site for the night. Bitter End looked like a nice resort. We walked around in the afternoon and then took the dingy to Saba Rock, adjacent to Bitter End, for drinks and dinner. We met a French family that we encountered a couple days prior. Many people sail the Virgin Islands in the same direction, so it is common to see familiar faces throughout the journey.

Day 5: Anegada Part I

Nearly all of the Virgin Islands are mountainous and have volcanic rock formations—all but one. Anegada was formed on top of a coral reef, which makes it flat. Its geography also makes it more prone to having large sandy beaches.

The sail to Anegada was one of the longer legs of the trip. It took several hours to travel from Bitter End to Anegada. This leg of the journey was the only one that we could not see the destination in the distance. Anegada does not have much prominence above the horizon. Only about 30 min away could we start to make out some palm trees floating just above the horizon.

After our arrival, we got off the boat and rented a pickup truck to get to the other side of the island. The bed of the pickup was outfitted with bench seats, so the entire boat crew was able to squeeze in.

In the distance on the other side of a swamp next to the road, we saw flamingos. For lunch we stopped at a restaurant at Loblolly Beach. This was one of the few times during the trip we encountered some rain showers. The rain hardly interrupted any plans and there also were some occasional downpours at night during the trip. We ended the day at Cow Wreck Beach, which had a nice bar with swings and a giant Jenga game.

Day 6: Anegada Part II

This was our official beach day on Anegada. There is an undeveloped beach on the south west shoreline, which is one of the most pristine beaches I’ve ever been on. We took kayaks from the boat and went ashore. Lots of photo taking ensued because if there weren’t pictures, did it really happen?

For dinner, we had Caribbean lobster at a local restaurant next to the water. Unlike New England lobster, the Caribbean variety do not have claws, but still were tasty. I survived picking apart my half-lobster dinner. I’ve never been a huge fan of dissecting my meal on my plate, even tho I realize this is a rite of passage with lobster.

Day 7: Scrub Island

Scrub Island was the nicest resort and marina that we stayed at during the voyage. Little Dix on Virgin Gorda was arguably fancier, but we only were there for dinner. Scrub Island had a number of nice pools, hot tubs, and bars where we could lounge and look at the beautiful island views across the channel. There was even a water slide that went into one of the lower pools. At night the pool and palm trees were beautifully illuminated with colorful lights.

Day 8: Jost van Dyke

Last but not least was Jost van Dyke. We technically stopped at Little Jost van Dyke first to hike to the Bubble Pool, which was a coral tidal pool that the ocean waves crashed into.

We then continued sailing another 30 minutes to the famous Soggy Dollar Bar, the original home of the painkiller cocktail. The primary ingredients in this drink were rum, pineapple juice, orange juice, and cream of cocoanut.

There was a webcam mounted on top of the bar and my parents were able to find me spot me while at home in snowy New Hampshire.

Day 9: Departure

We returned to the marina in Tortola and reversed the route we had made on arrival. The our taxi from the marina to the ferry terminal in Road Town arrived and the driver introduced himself. “Yeah man, my name is Shampoo,” he said. One of my friends from the boat quickly observed and quipped in French that Shampoo also had no hair. That gave me a good laugh.

At least on departure we were fully acclimated to island time, since getting out of the Virgin Islands was equally a circus as was the arrival. Of course there were all sorts of exit stamps and cash-only taxes, but this was the bittersweet end to a great vacation. 10/10 would highly recommend.

A year of blogging

Nantasket Beach, Hull, MA, drone shot
Drone shot of Nantasket Beach in Hull, MA, looking towards Boston in the distance

I bought the drewsview.xyz domain a year ago and the out reach of this page has exceeded my expectations. My Twitter page has grown at reasonable clip thanks in no small part to my #NHpolitics and liberty followers. My public Instagram and YouTube pages need more love, but they have generated positive impressions. I’d like to be more active on Odysee, which is a video site hosted on a blockchain, and is more impervious to censorship. I plan on flying high and keeping the adventure going into Summer 2022. I have some good trips in the works for June. Stay hungry.